Tuesday 9 September 2014

Figaro, Figaro, Figaro!

Magical fig tree
For no reason other than their shared initial letters, every time I think of figs, the jukebox in my head starts singing Figaro's aria from the Barber of Seville opera (you'd know it if you heard it). Figaro is the name of the aforementioned barber and has not a thing to do with figs, but either way, I've found myself singing the tune constantly since I came back from my holidays, partly because figs were in season while I was there and partly because of the beautiful fig tree on the beach (I know! Who knew fig trees could grow on beaches??). It was old and gnarled, with wide branches sweeping down to the sand and laden with unripe fruit. The low-lying branches and full foliage created a majestic canopy, providing a cool, shady den for anyone who needed it (one man appeared to have taken up almost permanent residence there, blankets and all). And every time we passed by, there was the most incredible perfume in the air - slightly sweet and nutty and uniquely figgy. 

And since we're on the topic of figs, have you ever wondered how Jacob's get the figs in the Fig Roll? I've puzzled over this mystery for many a year, no doubt prompted by the TV ad of my childhood which asked the very same question (the one with the cartoon spy trying to gain access to the factory to find the answer). Now it's not something I've thought long and hard about, but it has warranted the occasional musing. If you make a sausage roll, for example, the crease where you join the two sides of the pastry is always visible. But any dough soft enough that it melts in the heat of the oven - thus smoothing out the crease - could not be moulded successfully into shape to contain the figs. A veritable conundrum, but one that was finally answered when I thought to ask a friend of mine who used to work in Jacob's (she shall henceforth be known as Agent F). The answer is remarkably (and sadly) mundane: co-extrusion (the method whereby both filling and dough are extruded at the same time from two tubes, one inside another). As is often the case, life's little mysteries are much more exciting unsolved. Ho hum. So apologies if I've taken the magic of the Fig Roll away. I'd like to blame Agent F, but really, I did ask.

The King of Dates

When it comes to using dried fruit in treats - baked or otherwise - I find figs a little underwhelming, so in spite of the lengthy intro featuring figs, I'm now going to turn my attention to dates (another exotic fruit not native to our little island in the Atlantic). If your only experience of dates are the small, dried-up variety, may I introduce you to their much rarer cousin, the Medjool. They are at least twice the size, softer, squidgier and decadently plump. In the same way that regular dried dates are like nature's toffees, these are a sophisticated soft caramel created especially by Mother Nature. They are quite expensive to buy here, when you can find them, but every year I bring home an enormous bag of them from the market in Spain (much cheaper). Generally I just eat them as they are - a sweet treat with a cuppa - but this time I had bigger plans. Home-made Nutella.


Chocolate nirvana
Yes, you read that right. I've been wanting to try my hand at a home-made hazelnut chocolate spread for quite some time now and recently came across a recipe that used Medjool dates. The original recipe came from Deliciously Ella, a blog dedicated to wholesome recipes, and uses only good things (which of course means that this is one guilt-free treat). The Medjool dates (full of nutritious goodness) provide much of the sweetness as well as adding a soft texture and caramel notes. For the chocolate spread, they're blended with raw cacao powder (like cocoa, but in its natural, unroasted state, so it retains the nutrients and enzymes of the cacao bean), roasted hazelnuts, water and some pure maple syrup (another natural product). I tweaked the recipe, adding a greater amount of cacao powder for a richer chocolate hit and roasted hazelnuts instead of soaked, unroasted ones. I also added a little bit of Maldon salt to balance the flavours and a sprinkle of instant espresso powder to further enhance the chocolate kick. 

Oat cakes made chocolatey
As my food processor is not brilliant, the hazelnuts didn't get completely whizzed into a paste, but the resulting spread had a pleasing nutty bite to it (much like crunchy peanut butter, which I love). Although you need to keep the spread in the fridge, it remains slightly soft; the perfect spreading consisting. In keeping with the healthy theme, I tried it on some oat cakes (yum), on a spoon (even more yum) and had to draw the line at just diving on in there face first, though it was tempting. I reckon it would make a delicious filling for a chocolate layer cake and I'm looking forward to trying it on toast, fresh crusty bread, crackers, on a larger spoon... While this is indeed a very healthy treat, good health is first and foremost about moderation, so I may be in trouble here. It's possible that I have just created my own chocolatey doom. But what a way to go, Ladies and Gentlemen, what a way to go.
Hazelnut Chocolate Spread
100g roasted hazelnuts (I bought them ready chopped and roasted in the supermarket and perked up the flavour by sticking them on a tray in a hot oven for a few minutes)
210g or approximately 17 Medjool dates (stones removed)
130ml-150ml water 
2 tbsp maple syrup (make sure it's the real thing and not flavoured golden syrup)
2-3 tbsp raw cacao powder (you can find this in health food shops)
1/2 tsp Maldon salt
1/4 tsp instant espresso powder

Whizz the hazelnuts in the food processor until they are ground as much as your machine allows, then add the salt, espresso and cacao powder. Blend well before adding the Medjool dates and maple syrup. The mixture will clump together into a ball, but this will loosen up as you gradually add the water, blending until you get the consistency you want. Spoon into a sterilized jar and keep in the fridge (if it isn't all eaten in one sitting!).

If you want to make a less expensive option and aren't worried about health benefits, feel free to try this with cocoa rather than cacao powder and regular golden syrup, though keep the Medjool dates - it is their soft consistency (and additional moisture) that makes this spread work.

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